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Dining review: LowBrau great for beer; food needs some tweaks

June 24, 2013, 8:20 am
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This midtown interpretation of a German beer hall is one of the most exciting and popular newcomers on the local food and bar scene that I can remember, bringing new life, great expectations and all the anticipated little flubs, fumbles and foibles of a place run by two smart and endearing guys who have never done anything remotely like this before.

Scrivner Ahoppe-Glosser and Leila Ansari enjoy a beer at LowBrau, a newcomer to the midtown Sacramento bar scene.

LowBrau offers a wide-ranging and high-quality selection of 14 draft beers and 28 bottled beers that changes often.

LowBrau's bratwurst on a sweet roll is topped with sweet peppers and cheese sauce.
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The Beer Run: Some great beers and some pairings to avoid

June 29, 2013, 10:52 am
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I've been doing plenty of research for this column lately, meaning I've had the pleasure of tasting some very fine beers, along with a few clunkers. I've been to brewfests, breweries, pubs and restaurants.

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Dining review: Cordova Casino's Lodge restaurant isn't a sure bet

June 30, 2013, 7:29 am
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Have you ever had one of those sinking feelings upon walking out of a casino?

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Dining review: Couple’s dream inspires in four-star dining in Truckee

August 11, 2013, 2:18 pm
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If you could carve out a little dream for yourself, a romanticized life that revolved around beautiful food, a small town, an unhurried pace and simmering fanfare for the work you do, wouldn’t it be nice to have it look something like this?

Redwood Hill Farm chevre, baby heirloom beets, candied walnut vinaigrette and rosemary bavaois at Trokay.

Diners in Tokay’s first-floor dining room, where there’s a tasteful decor combination. The only drawback is that it can get a bit loud.

Chef Earl James Reynolds delivers a plate of heirloom tomatoes to a party dining on the second floor recently at Trokay in Truckee.

Black-pepper creme friache, parmigiano crisp, powdered proscuitto butter and a soup of wild sylvetta offer a nuanced combination.
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First Impressions: Capital Dime mostly worth the coin

August 15, 2013, 8:09 pm
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First Impressions visits dining spots in the region that are new or have undergone recent transitions. Have a candidate for First Impressions? Email us at taste@sacbee.com

Watermelon salad with shrimp.

Panzanella salad with heirloom tomatoes.

Salmon with green beans and new potatoes.
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Dining review: Bandera straddles a line between pleasing and predictable

August 17, 2013, 8:18 pm
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It’s a simple question with a complicated answer: Why do people like chain restaurants?

Hawaiian ribeye steak at Bandera.

Bandera’s heirloom tomato and yellow watermelon salad.

Bandera’s prime rib.
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Dining: Quality Vietnamese food at Stockton Blvd. eatery

September 7, 2013, 10:15 pm
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There’s so much to explore at Quan Nem Ninh Hoa.

Dining with friends at Quan Nem Nihn Hoa means plenty of good food and many opportunities for sharing.
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First Impressions: Tank House is place for smoked meats

September 13, 2013, 12:00 am
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A meat-lover’s choice with a focused menu

The Tan House baby back ribs are smoky and meaty.

The ample bar at Tank House is where you order your food and drinks.

Tank House took over the location on J Street from Hads Steak & Seafood,

The Tank House menu is simple and short.
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Dining: Sampino’s celebrates Italian traditions with inimitable Friday dinners

September 15, 2013, 12:00 am
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For several years, I have watched with some degree of fascination as Sampino’s Towne Foods opened, adapted, evolved and prospered.

Duck at Sampino’s

The large platter of antipasti at Sampino’s includes olives and an array of pickled vegetables.

Sampino’s risotto.

Sampino’s timbale
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Dining: Two Thai restaurants on the same stretch of Broadway: So which is better?

September 22, 2013, 12:00 am
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Chada Thai and Taste of Thai, two well-respected restaurants, are essentially next door to each other on Broadway. Both have ardent supporters and detractors. So which is better?
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Dining review: Elegant, elevated Ella makes case as Sacramento region’s best restaurant

September 28, 2013, 11:23 pm
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In the nearly seven years Ella Dining Room & Bar has graced our downtown dining scene with an exciting and original brand of urban elegance, the restaurant has had four chefs, three general managers and one very hands-on family.

Seared local sturgeon is served with caul fat, cranberry beans, gypsy peppers and fennel salad.

Wood shutters line the wall and ceiling in a private dining room at Ella.

Glassware awaits diners at Ella.

Ravin Patel is executive chef at Ella Dining Room and Bar.
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Dining review: Lucca struggles with cooking consistency

October 6, 2013, 12:00 am
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Three visits resulted in three varied experiences — from spot-on to inedible.

The “market steak” special at Lucca.

Spaghetti carbonara with pork belly.

Pappardelle with mushrooms and sausage.

Grilled pork chop with polenta.
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Dining review: Two Indian restaurants in Folsom

October 13, 2013, 12:00 am
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When it comes to Indian cooking, fans of these exotic yet welcoming flavors often start by asking whether we are talking about southern or northern India. It’s a key question, for the ingredients, the seasonings, the overall approach can vary noticeably according to where you are on the map.

Bhel puri, a puffed rice snack, is served at Mylapore.
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Dining review: Zocalo’s beautiful urban setting is the draw

October 20, 2013, 12:00 am
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To assess Zocalo, the stylish, upscale and ever-popular Mexican restaurant in midtown, it’s worthwhile to put it in context.

Tres leches cake is one option to finish off a meal at Zocalo.

Mango-glazed salmon is served with black beans and spinach salad at Zocalo.

The plate of empanadas at Zocalo is designed to impress.
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First Impressions: Lou’s Sushi on P Street

October 25, 2013, 9:55 am
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Louis Valente has put in his time learning at the feet of his mentors and is ready to rock midtown with sushi of the highest order.

At Lou’s Sushi, the seafood nachos appear on fried wontons.

The “Daniel, My Brother” sushi roll.
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Dining review: Soups, bibimbap and completely Korean pizza on menu at YD House

October 27, 2013, 12:00 am
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We show up for dinner early on a Sunday evening, knowing it’s the best chance to snag a table before the sun sets and the crowds come, as they surely will.

Korean-style pizza has rice instead of a standard crust.

The “jok bal” at YD House is a rather large amount of pork from the pig’s feet and lower leg.

Blood sausage is called soon dae jupsi.
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Dining Review: El Pueblo in Winters scores with authentic and sincere Mexican cooking

November 18, 2013, 12:01 pm
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With its hearty plates of Mexican comfort food, El Pueblo Meat Market and Taqueria/Deli in Winters strives to keep things simple and old-fashioned.

Camarones a la diablo – shrimp in spicy sauce – at El Pueblo in Winters

The crisp chicharrones are prepared in a large pot in the kitchen at El Pueblo in Winters.

El Pueblo in downtown Winters serves a variety of traditional Mexican dishes that are deliciously prepared and generously portioned.
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First Impressions: The Cultured & The Cured in east Sacramento

November 21, 2013, 5:19 pm
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New cheese and charcuterie shop opens to an enthusiastic East Sac customer base.
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Dining review: Trails Restaurant

November 24, 2013, 12:00 am
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It’s worth looking into the past to see what Sacramento was all about, like this restaurant, open since 1952.

A neon sign shows the charm of a lost era at Trails Restaurant in Land Park. The Western-themed restaurant has been around since the 1940s and was once co-owned by Esther Williams, Olympic swimmer turned Hollywood actress.

Rosemary Carlson has been waiting tables at Trails Restaurant on Broadway for more than 20 years. It was opened in 1952 by Olympic and Hollywood legend Esther Williams and her husband, Ben Gage. In the eatery’s heyday, patrons lined up out the door.

The Trail Restaurant’s house special dinner of pork ribs, shish kebab and prawns, a baked potato, salad and a roll has the feel of a 1980s meal.

Gin Wong, left, who bought Trails Restaurant in 1979, serves up a dish off the broiler last week. Over the years, it appears, the menu has changed little.
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Dining Review: Season 52’s calorie-counting concept wears thin

December 8, 2013, 12:00 am
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The concept at Seasons 52, this health-conscious, calorie-aware, casual fine-dining restaurant at the Arden Fair mall, boils down to a message you may not want to hear: We are a nation of gluttons, we cannot control our impulses, and we hate ourselves when we can’t fit into our skinny jeans.

Grilled trout

Caedar plank salmon

The grilled shrimp with cavatappi pasta, with ample shrimp, is one of Season 52’s better dishes. It was $19.50 on a recent menu.
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